Warsaw Neighborhoods

Neighbourhoods:

Warsaw is a vast area divided into 18 different boroughs, all boasting a different look and feel. Whether you’re looking to rent a flat in the middle of the hustle and bustle or a family house near your children’s school, or maybe something in between, there are several areas well worth considering. The following nine area guides will help you weigh what each neighbourhood has to offer, based on your particular preferences.

Srodmiescie:

Smack dab in the centre of bustling downtown Warsaw, Srodmiescie is one of the most sought-after boroughs for students, expat couples and young professionals hungry for the big city life. This is the capital’s cultural, corporate and recreational heart, with a cacophony of historical monuments, cultural institutions and high-rise structures housing offices and hotels. The reconstructed Old Town, New Town, President’s Palace and Parliament building are all within a few blocks of each other, while embassies and consulates populate Ujazdow, a section of the district south of Plac Trzech Krzyzy. What’s more, this area also possesses numerous upscale fashion boutiques, the newest shopping arcade (Zlote Tarasy) and spots for foodies running the gamut from white-tablecloth fine dining to coffee shop comfort grub. There’s no shortage of parks around, including the grandiose Lazienki Park, Botanical Gardens, Agrykola Park, Ujazdwoski Park and Saski Garden, which offer residents plenty of opportunities to relax and immerse themselves in a little greenery.

Housing
The real estate in this central zone is quite valuable, and the cost of living is generally higher here than anywhere else in Warsaw. Housing ranges from tiny one-room flats in Socialist Realist apartment blocks to spacious residences in trendy newly-built condos and a sprinkling of larger family houses. The riverside Powisle section of the district has some exclusive expat favourites such as Holland Park near Plac Trzech Krzyzy and Patria on Leona Kruczkowskiego, which include 24-hour security, parking, gyms and pools. Look for rents in the PLN3,500 or higher range for three-bedroom apartments and a semi-detached house for upwards of PLN18,000.

Health care
There are numerous private medical and dental facilities in this central area of town, including LIM Medical Centre (www.cmlim.pl) on the floors 7-10 of the Marriott Hotel and Damiana Medical Centre (www.damian.com. pl) on ulica Foksal. You also have the option of going to Lux Med (www.luxmed.pl) on ulica Chmielna, which offers comprehensive care as well as a specialised mother and child outpatient clinic. A modern dental clinic, Eurodental, has two branches in this district, one on ulica Andersa and the other on ulica Nowowiejska.

Positives
No other neighbourhood in Warsaw offers more block-for-block appeal than this dynamically developing downtown district. Packed with a plethora of cultural attractions, shopping venues, restaurants, lively nightlife spots, government facilities and an extensive public transport network, this area is perfect for foreigners who want to be close to all the action.

Negatives
The major drawbacks of this area are the crowds and chaos. All the street activity, as one might expect, gets a bit noisy. Traffic congestion is inescapable during morning and evening rush hours and parking is a pain. And if you have children, their international school might be a 25-40 minute commute away.

Mokotow:

Mokotow is a microcosm of what makes Warsaw great: culture, commerce, calm yet stylistically varied residential areas all packaged within lush greenery some two kilometres from the city centre. Embassies, ambassadors’ residences, public administrative offices and headquarters of large international companies, as well as the city’s main radio and television broadcasting companies, have found a home here. Expats favour this area for its choice of schools (including The British School Warsaw, the International Preschool, the Warsaw Montessori School and five higher education establishments), the good public transportation system and plentiful sport facilities and green zones, such as the 61-hectare Pole Mokotowskie park. Another reason is the burgeoning mix of restaurants, shops and boutiques that can be found along the district’s main arteries of aleje Niepodleglosci, ulica Pulawska, ulica Belwederska and ulica Jan Sobieskiego.

Housing
This is an agreeably diverse district where you’ll find classy, pre-war modernist villas and luxurious new housing complexes standing next to apartments in older Stalinist blocks. Rent is equally varied. Places in the Old Mokotow area and near the Metro station fetch higher prices than those in the outskirts of the borough. Foreigners pay around PLN3,5005,000 for a decent three-bedroom apartment, while a semi-detached house with a floor space of around 280 square metres will be around PLN5,000-9,000.

Health care
There are several quality health care facilities in this borough. LIM Medical Centre (www.cmlim.pl) has a 24-hour medical facility as well as an endoscopy and dental unit in the Mars and Jupiter buildings of the Mokotow Business Park on ulica Domaniewska/Woloska. Enel-Med (www.enel.pl) operates a centre on Domaniewska 49, while Damian Medical Centre (www.damian.pl) has an outpatient centre on aleje Niepodleglosci 107/109 as well as on ulica Walbrzyska 46.

Positives
This area continues to be a magnet for locals and foreigners alike, as it has a vibrant community, great schools, a healthy dose of culture and sporting spots and a good mix of restaurants and entertainment outlets. From here it’s also easy to get just about anywhere; several Metro stations shuttle residents to northern and southern points of the city.

Negatives
Commuting to work and school is simple enough with public transportation, but due to the area’s geographic location, with the centre so close by, traffic congestion can be an annoyance during rush hours and parking can be a challenge.

Zoliborz:

Due north of the centre, Zoliborz is the smallest and arguably the leafiest zone in Warsaw. The area was named after the French term ‘jolie bord’, meaning beautiful embankment, a reference to its position on the Vistula riverbank. With their modern playgrounds and recreational facilities, large parks such as Kaskada, Kepa Potocka, Zeromski and Sady Zoliborskie offer a tranquil respite from urban activity and a wonderful lifestyle for families and sporty types who enjoy jogging and biking. The district’s heart is Plac Wilson, a large square at the top of ulica Mickiewicza, which is ringed by pre-war multi-storey blocks of flats and has a subway station and several bus and tram lines running through it. Plenty of stores, supermarkets and restaurants can be found on the streets radiating from this square. Closer to the centre, Plac Invalidow opens the way to the so-called Officers’ Zoliborz, an elegant living area with modernist architecture built for high-ranking military officers in the 1930s. Also in this area is Arkadia shopping mall (www.arkadia.com.pl) and Citadel, a well-preserved military fortress now housing a branch of the Independence Museum.

Housing
The not-quite-suburb, not-quite-city nature of this compact neighbourhood has attracted generations of local intellectuals and creative types, and more recently foreigners with a penchant for quiet surroundings. The accommodation landscape is made up of detached houses from the 1920s, groups of flats and more modern apartments circled by parks and open spaces. Monthly rent for a two-bedroom apartment begins at about PLN5,500 and detached houses with four bedrooms push upwards of PLN10,000.

Health care
Medical facilities are not the strong suit of this district, but its proximity to the city centre means that people are always within reach of highquality health care. The closest is Enel-Med’s outpatient centre in the Arkadia shopping mall.

Positives
This northern enclave is prized for its quiet, lush greenery and laidback charm, as well as for being near inner-city points of interest. Accommodation is varied and plentiful, and expat services are on the rise. There are also several family-friendly spots for dining and having a good time.

Negatives
Space is a bit tight in this area, making it difficult to find an expansive place for a growing family. There are no international schools here, but bus routes and the Metro offer convenient transportation to many of the establishments further afield.

Wola:

Situated on the left bank of the Vistula River, Wola is bordered by Zoliborz on the north and Ochota on the south. It began life as an industrial village called Wielka Wola before being incorporated into Warsaw in 1916. Over the next century, the area developed into an integral part of the city, slowly changing into an office and residential district. What this district lacks in culinary and cultural establishments it more than makes up for in business and service centres, and it boasts the Wola Park (www.wolapark.pl) shopping centres. It’s also home to some unique landmarks, including the Military, Jewish and Powazkowski cemeteries, treasure troves of sculpture and architecture and the final resting place for some of the most prominent Poles in history. The area is welcoming more upscale apartment complexes suitable for expats and young professionals.

Housing
Accommodation is abundant in this neighbourhood and rent is generally cheaper than in districts to the north and south. There’s the ubiquitous row of 1920s and 1930s blocks of flats and plenty of high-end options within larger gated complexes. You can expect rent to start at PLN2,500 for a fully furnished two-bedroom flat, with larger and more modern options going for triple that.

Health care
Private health facilities in the district include Citident (www.citident.pl) on ulica Mlynarska and Enel-Med (www.enel.pl) in the Atrium Plaza on Jana Pawła II 29, as well as the IRMED Allergy Centre (www.irmed.eu) on ulica Tyszkiewicza 13.

Positives
A big upside of living in Wola is the area’s proximity to the centre and the multitude of public transport choices. In addition, housing options are more affordable here than in neighbouring districts.

Negatives
Less street activity and green space and fewer entertainment options may make this area a bit too drab for some expats. International schools are also far from this part of town and getting to them might take a bit longer during rush hour traffic.

Ochota:

Well-connected, well-functioning and safe – this south-western part of Warsaw is popular with international families with young kids, or young suits who want to be outside the inner-city hubbub but close enough to take part in the action if they want to. This area benefits from a rich variety of public facilities, offices of local and foreign corporations, shopping arcades (CH Reduta and Blue City) and dining outlets located along the two main thoroughfares of aleje Jerozolismkie and ulica Grojecka. Park Szczeslicwicki, with its lush meadows, large lake and artificial ski slope, is a refuge for rest and relaxation.

Housing
Lining Ochota’s residential streets are block-long apartment complexes, some from the post-war era and some more modern ones in large property developments. There are also several gated luxury compounds with private security guards and premium facilities (fitness centre, swimming pool and the like) ideal for those who value security and highstyle convenience. Expect to pay in the range of PLN4-9,000 for a familysized flat in these high-end residences.

Health care
Enel-Med (www.enel.pl) and Lux Med (www.luxmed.pl) both have outpatient medical centres on aleje Jerozolimskie. The modern dental clinic Dentalux (www.detalux.pl) on ulica Racławicka is available round the clock.

Positives
This neighbourhood is home to an expanding range of shopping outlets, restaurants and entertainment spots for young and old alike. Access to the massive public parkland is also a plus, as is the ease of getting to places in the city’s core by both public transportation and car, although the main arteries can get clogged during peak hours.

Negatives
There are no international schools nearby (though The British School, Warsaw is not far away), so shuttling tykes in the morning can be an extended task.

Praga north and south:

A colourful, eclectic and historic borough situated on the eastern bank of the Vistula River, Praga presents a captivating contrast to Warsaw’s downtown area, as most of the area survived the wartime blitz. Due to decades of neglect, degradation and high crime rates, some parts of Praga have developed a dubious reputation, though revitalisation and increased investment have improved the situation dramatically over the last few years. The neighbourhood has a big footprint, with the northern section (Praga Polnoc) spanning from aleje Waszyngtona to ulica Starzynskiego, and the southern Praga Poludnie stretching down ulica Wal Miedzeszynski all the way to Trasa Siekierkowska. A vibrant artistic and creative community has set up a base in the north, setting up a slew of ateliers, bohemian bars and cafes and creatively stocked and designed stores. Saska Kepa, named after Saxon Guards stationed here in the 17th century, is a small upper-class pocket of the southern zone that houses several embassies and consulates. This is a premium area for expats, especially French, Belgians and Swiss, who appreciate the greenery, downto-earth character and the numerous international schools, including the Bilingual French-Polish Preschool Trampoline (www.trampoline.edu.pl), the French kindergarten Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery (www.saint-exupery.pl), and the French high school Lycee Francais de Varsovie (www.lfv.pl).

Housing
The variety of housing stock mirrors the area’s economic diversity. In the north, housing is mostly limited to character-laden brick tenements and rows of apartment blocks. The main roads of ulica Targowa, aleje Solidarnosci and ulica Grochowska are very busy, but the quieter offshoots are more congenial to live on. Rent varies greatly, but generally expect to pay PLN2,500-7,000 per month. In Saska Kepa, there are lots of posh abodes designed for wealthy businesspeople and expats on long-term contracts, but availability is fickle. These range from pre-war modernistic villas to semi-attached homes with some of the highest rents in town, starting at PLN25,000 for a four-bedroom residence.

Health care
Reputable private medical facilities in this area are Lux Med (www.luxmed. pl) Aleja Stanow Zjednoczonych and Enel-Med (www.enel-med.pl) on ulica Gilarska. You can find full dental services at Stomatologia M&M (www. stomatologiamm.pl) on ulica Grenadierow and at SuperNova Centrum Stomatologii (www.stomatologwarszawa.biz) on ulica Zamieniecka.

Positives
There’s a nice mix of architecture and greenery in this expansive area, with Skaryszewski Park, Praski Park and the Warsaw Zoo offering a variety of family-friendly activities. Other virtues include the expanding dining choices and cultural venues, as well as the variety of options for accommodation and schools, which shortens the commute time.

Negatives
Some parts of the north are still a bit seedy so it’s best to stick to the calmer and quieter residential areas where there’s an established foreign community. On the other hand, it might be hard to find an unoccupied family-sized residence, and they’re on the high end of the price spectrum.

Wilanow:

Fifteen kilometres south of downtown Warsaw, this exclusive residential district is primarily populated by diplomats, politicians and expat families drawn to the open space, peaceful tree-lined streets, elegant villas and private educational establishments. The neighbourhood owes its fame to the baroque Wilanow Palace, erected as the summer residence of King Jan III Sobieski in the 17th century, with its beautifully manicured gardens that play host to open-air concerts during warm weather months. Apart from this historic monument, the best quality of the area is its peaceful green spaces, including the Natolinski Park and parts of the Kabacki Forest and Marysin, plus plenty of bicycle paths. Although there are no shopping malls, residents rely on a local network of small district shops and supermarkets in neighbouring areas.

Housing
The housing around this suburb tends to be quiet, modern and spacious, with a myriad of residential areas with villas and new-age apartment complexes. Developments are generally more modern than in other areas of the city as investment in residential property has climbed over the past few years, but rents are still reasonable because Wilanow is relatively far from the city centre. Look for two-bedroom apartments to start at around PLN2,500 per month and high-end detached houses spreading out over 400 square metres to begin at about PLN10,000.

Health care
The Medicover Hospital (www.medicoverhospital.com) on ulica Rzeczypospolitej is a comprehensive private health care facility with outpatient and in-patient services, laboratory and imaging diagnostics with professional English-speaking doctors.

Positives
Lush green landscapes, tranquillity, security and high-style housing at reasonable prices are all bonuses of living in Wilanow. The larger living spaces, access to a growing community of like-minded foreigners and facilities for sports, including tennis and even golf, outweigh for many the downside of the longer commute to downtown.

Negatives
The length of the commute, as little as 15-20 minutes by car without traffic, can be triple that during rush hour, which can be frustrating for some. Evening entertainment and suave dining options are also few and far between, forcing residents to depend on cars or taxis.

Ursynow:

Sprawling on the southern periphery of Warsaw, next to the elite district of Wilanow and the lush Kabacki forest in the south, this working-class residential neighbourhood is filled with young families and business folks happy to have fled the inner-city hubbub. In size and population Ursynow is one of the largest quarters of the capital, but it draws few tourists and attractions are limited to the horseracing track in Sluzewiec and shopping malls. There’s a good network of food shops and a fast connection to the city via the Metro, although pickings are slim in the dining-out department.

Housing
As the so-called bedroom of Warsaw, this area is jam-packed with clusters of generic blocks of flats, some from the Soviet era, others more contemporary. In the outlying part of the district there are several terraced houses and gated condos. Family-sized apartments rent for upwards of PLN2,000, with places near the Metro stations at the higher end of the rent scale. Houses with three or four bedrooms start at around PLN5,000.

Health care
Health clinics that cater to the expat contingency are Lux Med (www. luxmed.pl), with a centre next to the Stokłosy Metro station and another on ulica Migdalowa, plus Enel-Med (www.enel.pl) on ulica Pulawska.

Positives
With a speedy subway connection to the inner city and good-value accommodations, Ursynow is a good base for young, energetic residents. Other virtues include plenty of greenery and international schools such as the International American School Pre-school, Kindergarten and High School (www.ias.edu.pl), the Japanese School (www.japoland.pl/gakko) and the European Bilingual Preschool (www.preschool.waw.pl) and Kindergarten.

Negatives
The area is still developing its expat-focused infrastructure. Though the services have improved steadily, and more foreigners are moving in every day, this wide-reaching area still has a level-headed local vibe.